Amalfi Off Season
How to have the world’s most famous coast all to yourself.
We recently got back from a trip to the Amalfi Coast, and I cannot tell you how brilliant the whole experience was. It was only three days, but it was three days packed with adventure, joy, and proper quality time.
When you think of Amalfi, you usually think of traffic, packed streets, and people in a constant rush. For us, it was the total opposite. We went at the end of February, and it was the perfect time to avoid the crowds. In Positano, we had the entire beach to ourselves. The streets were empty, and even though most of the shops were shut, we didn’t mind. Shopping wasn’t the goal.
A very strange lunch in Sorrento
Since the tourist spots were closed, we picked to small local places for lunch and ate breakfast and dinner at our studio. One place in Sorrento, called AZZ! Italian Tavern, really caught our attention.
It was a tiny tavern with just five tables. The door stays shut and only opens when a table is free. It seems to be run by a mother and son. The walls were covered in odd paintings, portraits, and Amalfi landscapes. But the decor near the bar was the real talking point: a dildo, a pack of Durex, and five colourful baby dummies all sitting together. Quite a mix, isn’t it?
While waiting for our food, we spotted an unfinished cigar tucked between wine bottles next to the TV remote. There were wooden statues, dirty dishes in open cabinets, and an elephant tusk next to a lamp. The food was amazing - pasta, wine, and espresso - but we left with more questions than we started with.
Finding the real Italy in Atrani
We had a full day planned to visit Positano, Praiano, Amalfi, and Ravello, but our favourite spot ended up being Atrani. It is a tiny village right next to Amalfi Town. We saw it on the map and realised it was only a ten-minute walk from where we parked.
We found ourselves on a bridge looking down into a completely empty main square. We headed down immediately for a snack, maybe some dessert and coffee. The atmosphere was so genuine - just locals going about their day. The smell of the food was incredible and the espresso was nice and strong.
We spent some time exploring the narrow pedestrian streets. It was the perfect place to play hide and seek with Alex; the whole village felt like a giant maze to him. I’ve marked it with a heart on Google Maps and I’ve promised myself I’ll go back and stay for a few days next time.
Alex and the “flying chairs”
On our last day, we took a short trip to Capri. It was also empty. We went to the top of the mountain, where Alex shouted at the top of his lungs that it was his “best day ever.” He was riding the “flying chairs” (the chairlift) and I think half the island must have heard him. It’s a very small island, after all.
After a few more hours by the beach, we took the ferry back and drove to the Naples airport, feeling very glad we chose this time of year to visit Amalfi.